Ep. 11 - Psyched on the Psyche: Performance Psychology & the Ethics of Development with Tom Beirne
Dec 21, 2023
In today’s episode with Tom Beirne, we talk about the psychology of performance and the ethics of developing a new dry-tooling crag.
Tom doesn’t love labels — and definitely don’t call him the dry-tooling guy — but to help paint a picture he’s a mixed climber from Seattle who especially enjoys questing, runs The Barn, a dry-tooling gym, helped to develop Wayne’s World, a dry-tooling crag, and is a former high-level collegiate athlete and World Cup competitor… in dry-tooling.
Through all of his experiences he’s been fascinated by the psychology of learning, training and performance — especially as it relates to exploring choss piles or competing. As Tom quotes in our chat, “you don't rise to your level of expectation, but fall to your level of training”.
Interested in how to raise your own level of training and rise to the occasion? Listen on.
2:23 - On changing on the name of "dry-tooling"
3:44 - Starting The Barn
7:44 - Getting into climbing and solo lead climbing as a beginner
17:47 - The joy of questing
28:43 - Dry-tooling in Korea and training for the World Cup
38:26 - Lessons from the military: Stress inoculation, learning to suffer well, and practice
45:54 - Self-reflection and keeping a climbing diary
53:03 - Visualization tactics
57:03 - Know (and examine) your motivations
1:00:08: - Developing Wayne's World
1:09:52: - Ethical considerations for development
Resources and links:
Want to climb at The Barn and train with Tom? You can check out their schedule and upcoming events here.
Ready to dive into your own motivations and psychology when it comes to climbing? Tom was greatly influenced by Arno Ilgner's "The Rock Warrior's Way: Mental Training For Climbers".
Lastly, a big thanks to Kyle for offering a few Ice Screw Cannons for this episode's giveaway. To learn more about his speciality climbing gear, including ultralight backpacks, aid ladders, and portaledge system, head to highmtngear.com.
Of course, a big thanks to our sponsors for supporting this show!
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Tom would like to thank his partner, Renai, for her support spanning many adventures.
Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!).
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